The Cathedral Church of Ss Peter & Paul on Pembroke Road in Bristol’s fashionable Clifton district is strikingly modern, being best described as Late Brutalist in genre. It was consecrated in 1973 and was the first post-Vatican II cathedral built under the council’s new guidelines. It is also the mother church of the diocese of Clifton, replacing the historic pro-cathedral in the centre of the city.
Architectural nerds have noted that it is the only Catholic church to have been designated Grade II* in the 1970s; its main architect was Ronald J Weeks, who had worked on a design for Liverpool’s Metropolitan Cathedral. I like modern churches – the good ones, that is. During my visit I was reminded how Bristol’s Catholic cathedral is also a hub for its music community. I remember going there for a Pierre Boulez concert in the 80s.
Once inside, the churchgoer is struck by the horizontal stained glass windows, diffusing colour like the Matisse Chapel in Vence. I loved kneeling and looking upward to see the wood-worked eaves around the spectacular organ. The altar is simple, making one concentrate on that which is truly important.
My Galician choice for lunch afterwards was inspired by the Herald’s Camino de Santiago pilgrimage when William Cash and James Jeffrey led a Chaucerian band of pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela in 2022 along the Portuguese Way of St James.
I recommend Muiño on Cotham Hill; muiño means “mill” or “windmill” in the delightful local Galego language.
Galicia is one of the true gastro regions of Spain, the other being the Basque Country. Galicia is famous for its beef – vaca rubia gallega – but also for its fish and wine, especially Godello. For those unfamiliar with this grape, the taste is like an unoaked white burgundy, at a fraction of the price. Albariño also hails from there, but now that everyone knows about it, it is less of a bargain.
The restaurant is first class and full of quirky character. We had a charming server called Matthew. While we were waiting for the main events, he steered us towards a creamy and crunchy Jamón croqueta which provided me with a Proustian madeleine moment that took me back to times past in Galicia. The sourdough bread had just the right amount of rosemary, sea salt and a dash of Arbequina olive oil; grilled, delicious and perfect for mopping up sauce.
No fewer than 11 sharing plates came next from which to choose, with vegan and vegetarian options as well. The roasted butternut squash with romesco sauce was a highlight; not least as I know (from past humbling experience) how tough it is to make at home. Its toasted seeds were done in the Spanish style, as were the triple-cooked potatoes with garlic-and-rosemary confit.
My favourite dish was probably the harissa-marinated chicken thigh skewers with brown butter, harissa and mint yoghurt. The typically Galician oven-roasted cod, with a basil pomme pûrée and chorizo-braised leeks, was also a hit. For pudding I headed south-east and chose a crema Catalana.
Muiño is a relaxed place in a lovely and quiet area; Cotham Hill is pedestrianised. With six years behind it, the chef is still full of inspiration. That the owner’s parents have a place in Galicia did not come as a surprise, as the experience was nothing but authentic.
This article originally appeared in the March 2024 issue of the Catholic Herald. To subscribe to our award-winning, thought-provoking magazine and have independent and high-calibre counter-cultural Catholic journalism delivered to your door anywhere in the world click here.
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