September may strictly belong to autumn, but summer isn’t over as far as vegetables are concerned. Tomatoes, courgettes and aubergines – “vegetable fruits” as they are properly called – are all still going strong. In fact, it’s often only now that tomatoes reach their full, sweet ripeness in Britain. This simple gratin plays on the fellowship of this classic Mediterranean trio – think ratatouille flavours, only more so. On meatier days, it would make a wonderful accompaniment to roast lamb or some blushing lamb chops, but on its own, with a leafy salad, it makes a fine vegetarian supper. Personally, I also rather like it cold.
Serves 4
750g aubergines, cut into 1cm cubes
6 cloves garlic, crushed
250g courgettes
Extra virgin olive oil
1 big red onion, peeled and finely sliced
Leaves from 4 bushy sprigs of thyme
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
3 big handfuls of basil leaves
4 medium tomatoes, chopped
Salt and pepper
50g parmesan (or good vegetarian alternative), grated
Method
Put the cubes of aubergine into a colander, sprinkle lightly with salt and leave for 30 minutes. When they’ve had their time, rinse them under the tap and pat dry with a bit of kitchen paper.
Preheat the oven to 180C/160C Fan/Gas 4.
Heat 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil in a large frying pan and add the onion, half the thyme leaves and a pinch of salt. Cook for 10 minutes over a medium heat, until the onion is soft, but not brown. Turn up the heat, add another 3 tbsp olive oil and throw in the aubergines and garlic. Cook, stirring constantly at first, for 8-10 minutes until the aubergine is soft and starting to brown. Add the chopped tomatoes and vinegar, stir in and bubble away over a medium heat for 5 minutes until everything is soft. Stir in the torn basil leaves and half the grated parmesan and continue to cook for another couple of minutes. Season generously.
While the aubergines are cooking, slice the courgettes lengthways into thin ribbons using a potato peeler (or mandolin). Toss with a splash of oil and some salt.
When the aubergine mixture is cooked, spread evenly over the bottom of a gratin dish. Top with the ribbons of courgette, overlapping them slightly in a single layer, then sprinkle with the remaining parmesan and thyme. Add a drizzle of olive oil and place in the preheated oven. Cook for 40-45 minutes until golden brown on top and bubbling around the edges.
Lucas Hollweg is an award-winning food writer, cookbook author and cook. A former Sunday Times journalist and cookery columnist, he writes for a wide range of food publications. His most recent book is Good Things to Eat.
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